It's been more than a month since the death of Cuban leader Fidel Castro , and the mood in Cuba is somber. Messages of remembrance are daubed on walls, and banners reading "Hasta Siempre, Comandante" hang in the streets. Official New Year's celebrations in Havana — celebrations that coincide with the anniversary of the Cuban Revolution's victory in 1959 — were canceled this year out of respect for the departed leader. But among the banners and the nostalgia there are also signs of modernity beginning to emerge that could transform Cuba. From a Westerner's perspective, Cuba feels immediately dysfunctional. The Communist mentality still clearly dominates, and there are queues for everything, particularly for important functions such as banking and exchanging currency. With few personal incentives to provide good service, attendants often focus on finishing conversations with colleagues before serving customers.